Throughout its history Vilnius has had many names: Vilna, Wilno, Vilnius. It has also had been nicknamed the Jerusalem of the North or the Jerusalem of Lithuania because of its large pre-war Jewish population.
Prior to World War II
Before the Second World War Vilnius was renowned as a centre of learning. It had a well-established Jesuit University and a number of Rabbinical study centres.
Vilnius had a Jewish community of over 100,000. There were more than 100 synagogues and at least ten yeshivas (study centres) that attracted Jewish students from all over Lithuania.
Evidence of Pre-War Communities in the City
Around the city the evidence of the ghettos is almost completely gone. A plaque at Rudninku 18 shows the plan of Vilnius’ two ghettos. The text, written in both Hebrew and Lithuanian, describes one of the dreadful massacres that took place in 1941.
After World War II
In the 21st century the Jewish population of Lithuania numbers barely 5,000 and there is only one functioning synagogue to be found in Vilnius. The Choral Synagogue (also called Torat HaKodesh) on Pylimo Street was opened in September 1903 in time for Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year).
During the war the building was commandeered by the Nazis. Sad at the time but this did at least ensure its survival.
Although the community is small it has two Jewish schools with more than two hundred students. The Chabad Lubavitch Centre, part of an international organisation, runs a private school as well. The Chabad also sells kosher food and provides kosher dinners to travellers after Friday night services.
State Vilnius Gaon Jewish Museum
The real history of the Lithuanian Jews can be found at the State Vilnius Gaon Jewish Museum. During the twentieth century there were several attempts at establishing a Jewish museum but each attempt was the victim of religious intolerance.
The current museum was established in 1989. It is dedicated to the Vilna Gaon, a renowned Jewish scholar named Elijah (Eliyahu) ben Shlomo Zalman.
Holocaust Museum
Vilnius’ other museum with strong Jewish connections is the Holocaust Museum at Pamenkalnio 12. It’s a very small space but for anyone studying Lithuania’s Jewish history a visit here is vital.
Pilgrimage to Paneriai
Many Jewish visitors will complete their visit with a pilgrimage to Paneriai. This is the site of some of the worst brutalities that took place in the area. It’s a short drive southwest of Vilnius and it’s not easy to find. It’s best to take a guided tour or find a taxi driver that knows exactly where it is. Paneriai has a small museum that can be found at 17 Agrastu Street.
Hope for the Future
Whilst it is true that most traces of Vilnius' Jewish past have been destroyed there is hope for the future. The Lithuanian government has promised to restore, and in some case, entirely rebuild dozens of Jewish landmarks. The government is footing part of the bill and a Jewish Cultural Fund has been established to seek private donations for the project.
More Information
For information about the Choral Synagogue contact the Jewish Community of Lithuania, Pylimo street 4, 01117 Vilnius, Lithuania, Tel: (370 5) 2613 003
The Chabad Lubavitch Centre can be found at Shaltinju str. 13, Vilnius 2007, Lithuania. The Vilnius Tourist Information Office offers plenty of additional information.
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